When we picture the 1920s, our minds often leap to the dazzling image of the flapper—her sequined dress, bobbed hair, and rebellious spirit. But what of the men who shared this transformative decade? The sartorial revolution of the “Roaring Twenties” was just as profound for gentlemen, marking a decisive shift from the formal, stuffy Edwardian era to a new standard of modern, relaxed, and distinctly stylish menswear. Understanding how did men dress in the 1920s is to understand a period of unprecedented social change, where clothing became a symbol of post-war optimism, youthful energy, and a new, more casual approach to life. This was the birth of the modern man’s wardrobe, an era that traded stiff collars for soft comfort and introduced silhouettes that continue to influence fashion today.
This comprehensive guide is your definitive resource on 1920s menswear. We will move far beyond a simple list of items and delve deep into the social forces that shaped these styles, the precise details that defined the look, and the stark contrast between day and evening wear. You will learn not just how did men dress in the 1920s, but the “why” behind the trends, from the impact of the First World War to the rise of Hollywood and sports as style influencers. Our goal is to provide you with a depth of detail and historical context that surpasses other resources, offering a complete portrait of the well-dressed gentleman of the Jazz Age.
The Social Catalyst: Why Men’s Fashion Changed So Dramatically
To truly grasp how did men dress in the 1920s, one must first understand the powerful societal shifts that made such change possible.
- The Impact of World War I: The war (1914-1918) was a great social leveller. The impractical, overly formal attire of the Edwardian upper class had no place in the trenches. Soldiers needed practical, comfortable, and uniform clothing like tunics and trousers that allowed for ease of movement. After the war, men were reluctant to return to the restrictive fashions of their fathers.
- The Rise of the Automobile and Leisure: As cars became more common, men needed practical clothing for driving—leading to the popularity of shorter coats, dusters, and goggles. Similarly, the new emphasis on leisure activities like golf, tennis, and weekend outings created a demand for dedicated sportswear, which began to influence everyday fashion.
- The Influence of Hollywood and Jazz Culture: Movie stars like Rudolph Valentino, Douglas Fairbanks, and Charlie Chaplin became international style icons. Men wanted to emulate the sleek, romantic, or comedic looks they saw on the silver screen. Simultaneously, the vibrant Jazz music scene, particularly spearheaded by African American musicians, introduced a new sense of rhythm, flair, and boldness to fashion.
The Foundation of the Wardrobe: Key Garments and Their Evolution
The 1920s gentleman’s closet was built on a new set of core principles: comfort, simplicity, and a looser, more athletic silhouette.
Suits: The Dawn of the Lounge Suit
The most significant shift was the move from the formal morning coat to the lounge suit as acceptable daywear for all but the most formal occasions.
- The Silhouette: The “Sack Suit”: The dominant suit cut of the decade was the sack suit. It was characterized by a straight, boxy jacket with minimal waist suppression. The shoulders were natural (unpadded), and it featured a single-breasted front with two or three buttons, often worn fastened only at the top button. This created a comfortable, relaxed fit that was a world away from the corseted look of previous eras.
- Trousers: The high-waisted trousers of the past gave way to mid-rise trousers that were worn fitted on the hip. They were wide-legged and straight, with cuffs (turn-ups) becoming increasingly popular, a trend imported from the United States. They were typically worn with suspenders (braces), as belt loops were not yet common.
- Fabrics and Patterns: While solid navy and grey were staples, the 1920s man embraced pattern. Chalk stripes were popular for business, while glen plaids and houndstooth added texture. For summer, seersucker and linen provided breathable comfort.
Shirts: The Soft Collar Revolution
The stiff, detachable collar that had to be starched was one of the most notable casualties of the new informality.
- The Soft Attached Collar: The 1920s saw the widespread adoption of shirts with soft, attached collars. The most popular styles were the long, pointed collar, often worn with a tie pin to keep the points in place, and the rounded club collar.
- Colours and Weaves: White was still king for formal wear, but coloured and striped shirts became acceptable for daywear. The button-down collar, pioneered by Brooks Brothers, was initially considered sportswear but began its journey into the mainstream.
Neckwear: A Splash of Art Deco Flair
Ties were the primary way a man could express his personality.
- The Necktie Takes Over: The narrow, long necktie, knotted in a simple four-in-hand knot, became the standard, replacing the more formal cravat and ascot for daywear.
- The Bow Tie: Remained a popular choice, especially for evening wear and among academics and artists.
- Patterns and Colours: Ties were often bold, featuring Art Deco geometric patterns, stripes, and sometimes even playful motifs. Silk was the fabric of choice, and they were typically cut on the bias to allow for a better knot.
The Layers: Outerwear and Knitwear
A 1920s man’s ensemble was not complete without its layers.
- The Waistcoat (Vest): Even as suits became more casual, the waistcoat remained a crucial third piece. It was almost always worn with a suit, providing a polished look and a pop of pattern or colour, often in a contrasting fabric like fair isle or diamond-patterned knit.
- Sweaters and Cardigans: Knitwear became a wardrobe staple for the first time. The V-neck sweater, often worn over a shirt and tie, was a popular casual look. Cardigans also gained acceptance as comfortable, practical layers.
- Outerwear: The overcoat was typically a long, straight-cut Ulster coat or a slightly more fitted Polo coat. For driving, the duster coat—a long, light-coloured coat made to protect clothing from dust—was a common sight.
Head to Toe: The Devil in the Details
The complete 1920s look was defined by its accessories.
- Hats: The Crown of a Gentleman: A man was never without a hat outdoors.
- The Fedora: The quintessential 1920s hat, made of felt with a lengthwise crease down the crown and a flexible brim.
- The Flat Cap (Ivy Cap): A soft, rounded cap with a small brim, popular with working-class men and young boys, but also adopted by all classes for casual and sporting events.
- The Boater: A stiff straw hat with a flat crown and brim, worn in the spring and summer.
- Footwear: The most common shoe was the Oxford, often in black or brown leather. Two-tone spectator shoes became a bold fashion statement for the daring dresser, particularly associated with jazz musicians and dancers. For evening, patent leather opera pumps were required.
- Other Accessories: Suspenders were essential for holding up trousers. Cufflinks were a must for dressing up a shirt. A pocket watch on a chain was still the standard, though wristwatches were becoming popular, especially among veterans who had used them for their practicality in the war.
Dressing for the Occasion: Daywear vs. Eveningwear
Understanding how did men dress in the 1920s requires distinguishing between the clothing for different times of day.
Daywear
The standard daywear for a middle or upper-class man was the lounge suit, as described above, worn with a soft-collared shirt, a tie, a waistcoat, and a fedora or flat cap. This was the uniform for the office, for lunch, and for most daily activities.
Eveningwear (Formal)
Formal events demanded strict adherence to dress codes.
- The Tuxedo (Dinner Jacket): While still not as formal as white tie, the black tuxedo became widely accepted for evening events. The 1920s dinner jacket was often single-breasted with peak or shawl lapels, faced in silk or satin. It was worn with matching trousers, a formal white shirt with a wingtip collar, and a black bow tie.
- White Tie: The most formal of all dress codes. This required a black tailcoat, matching trousers with two silk braids down the side, a white pique waistcoat, a wingtip collar shirt, and a white bow tie.
Subcultures and Regional Variations: Beyond the Mainstream
The narrative of how did men dress in the 1920s also includes distinct subcultures.
- The Ivy League Look: On American university campuses, a specific style emerged: button-down oxford cloth shirts, repp ties, chino trousers, and sweaters. This “trad” style would become a cornerstone of American fashion.
- The Working Class: For labourers and factory workers, fashion was about durability. They wore sturdy trousers, simple work shirts, suspenders, and flat caps. Denim overalls were common for manual labour.
- The Zoot Suit Precursor: In African American and Latino communities, particularly in Harlem, a more flamboyant style was brewing. While the full-blown Zoot Suit with its extreme proportions would emerge in the 1930s, its roots were in the 1920s, with young men adopting slightly wider-legged trousers and longer jackets as a form of cultural and stylistic rebellion.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What was the most common 1920s suit style called?
The most common and iconic suit of the 1920s was the Sack Suit. It was defined by its straight, boxy, and intentionally loose fit with minimal tailoring at the waist, natural shoulders, and a single-breasted front. This suit represented the decade’s major shift towards comfort and informality.
Did 1920s men really wear high-waisted trousers?
No, this is a common misconception. The 1920s was actually the decade that abandoned the high-waisted trousers of the Edwardian era. Trousers from the Roaring Twenties were worn at the natural waist or even slightly below, sitting on the hip bone. They were characterized by their wide, straight legs and the growing popularity of cuffs at the bottom.
What kind of hats did 1920s men wear?
Hats were non-negotiable. The three most iconic hats were:
- The Fedora: A felt hat with a creased crown and medium brim, worn for most formal and semi-formal occasions.
- The Flat Cap (Ivy Cap): A soft, casual cap made of wool or tweed, popular for leisure activities.
- The Boater: A stiff straw hat for spring and summer.
How can I dress like a 1920s man for a themed party?
To create an authentic 1920s look, focus on these key pieces:
- A sack-style suit in grey or navy, preferably with wide, cuffed trousers.
- A white dress shirt with a soft, pointed collar.
- A narrow necktie in a bold geometric or striped pattern.
- Suspenders (braces) to hold up the trousers.
- A fedora or flat cap.
- Leather Oxford shoes or two-tone spectator shoes for a flashier look.
Was the 1920s the first time men wore casual clothing?
While not the very first, the 1920s was the pivotal decade where casual clothing became socially acceptable for the middle and upper classes for the first time. The adoption of knitwear, soft-collared shirts, and the lounge suit as daywear marked a dramatic departure from the past and laid the foundation for the modern casual wardrobe.
What is the difference between a 1920s suit and a modern suit?
The differences are stark. A 1920s sack suit was boxy and loose with natural shoulders and high armholes. Trousers were wide-legged and high-rise. A modern suit is almost the opposite: it is fitted and tailored to the body, with padded, structured shoulders, low armholes, and trousers that are narrower and worn lower on the waist.
Conclusion
Exploring how did men dress in the 1920s reveals a decade of sartorial liberation and innovation. It was an era that boldly cast off the rigid formality of the Victorian and Edwardian ages, embracing comfort, individual expression, and a new, modern silhouette. The 1920s man was no longer constrained by stiff collars and corseted jackets; instead, he stepped out in soft-collared shirts, comfortable sack suits, and expressive accessories that reflected the vibrant, optimistic spirit of the Jazz Age.
The legacy of this decade is immense. The widespread adoption of the lounge suit, the soft collar, and the concept of separates like sweaters fundamentally shaped the modern male wardrobe. The next time you put on a necktie, a V-neck sweater, or even a simple pair of cuffed trousers, you are participating in a style revolution that began a century ago. The Roaring Twenties didn’t just change music and culture; it permanently changed the way men dress, establishing a blueprint for comfort and style that continues to resonate today.